Messenger Bag Tutorial - How to make a messenger bag

First time you've made a bag like this?  This tutorial is for you!  Having made several other types of bag before, this was my first time making a messenger bag, so hopefully my steps will be easy to follow - and I won't use sewing jargon and assume you know how (e.g.) sew in a zip...  Plus, you can learn from my mistakes :-)

1. Buy your fabric!

You'll need:

1m of 'outer' fabric - something strong.  I used oilcloth but thick linen or denim would work too.

1.5m of 'inner' fabric (you probably won't use it all, but better to have leftovers than not enough) - I used calico for my lining but you can use anything that'll stand up for having stuff chucked in and dug out every day!

2 zips - one for the inner pocket, one for the 'security' zip

Bias binding or ribbon or webbing for Edging

Webbing for strap

Strap adjustor set (see link below)

2. Cut fabric to size :-)

 I'd recommend creating your own template for your bag, as everyone will want their bag to be a slightly different size.  Check against another bag to make sure this new one will be the size you're aiming for!

To avoid extra sewing, cut the fabric into the shape of the template below.  Use the pattern of the fabric (if there is one) to help you cut straight!

 Remember when making your template, to leave extra room for seams. There aren't that many with this shape of template, but have a look at the finished product to see where you'll need a tiny bit more give.

I have my father's engineering genes, so my projects usually start off with a scribble like this i.e. a plan of action!  If you know what special features you want your bag to have, you can plan them into the making process, rather than fiddly adding them too late...

Making a drawing like this also reminds you of what you've forgotten - I almost forgot the Strap! :-)

3. Pockets

 For me, this was the fiddliest part of the making process.  I'm not sure this is the 'approved' way to make pockets, but it worked!  This way, the bulk of the pocket sticks into the bag, rather than out - thus, the bag doesn't bulge out where the pocket is.

So, cut a rectangle of fabric, fold the edges under to make a seam.
Then sew the zip onto the top edge of the fabric - at each end, turn the fabric at right angles around the edges of the zip - this creates a 3D shape.  [It's easiest to sew in zips when they're undone - and make sure you move the zip pull, so it doesn't suddenly knock your sewing machine needle in the wrong direction!]
For the bottom corners, you can either leave them be, and have a flatter pocket, or you can fold the corners in on themselves to create more of this 3D shape*.

 This inner pocket is then sewn directly onto the lining fabric - so, you'll sew 3 sides of fabric, then sew the free side of the zip at the top.  (This is why I used a transparent zip, looks neater)
My other two pockets were formed in a similar way: edge the fabric, create the 3D shape, sew directly onto the outer fabric - trying not to copy my skew-wiff sewing of the longer pocket!

*Fold rightside edges onto each other, as if you were making a triangle with the fabric.  Sew a tiny seam at right angles to the edge.  You should now have a tiny triangle of fabric that you can chop off if you like.  Turn this little seam out and you'll have made your rectangle 3D.

4. Combine Outer & Inner

Once you're sure that you've got all the extra bits you want - in my case, all 3 pockets, sew the outer and inner fabrics together.
At this point, it's so easy for the fabric to go skew-wiff!  Make sure it's well pinned together - or pegged together, in my case, as oilcloth is so thick pin pricks make quite obvious marks.

 Time to do the edging.  What did I learn?  Use large webbing!!  Although mine looks very neat and beautiful, it was a pig to get right, and probably took the longest time for the smallest detail!
If you're not using bias binding, which goes round corners easily, make sure you sew in one direction right up to the corners, then re-direct the sewing machine and the webbing/ribbon.

 5. Strap hooks & Security Zip

These are maybe the fussiest bits of the make.  Not complicated, just small, in the case of the strap 'hooks', and needing to be precise, in the case of the security zip.

I struggled to find brass strap hooks and adjustors - most places just had plastic ones - not very classy!  I eventually found this great shop on etsy that sells them at a very good price:

http://www.etsy.com/listing/78392410/1-12-bag-slider-strap-adjuster-antique

The strap hooks then just consist of a little piece of outer fabric, strengthened with the same length of webbing, then attached to the top of the bag sides.

 This photo shows my bits and pieces as I tried to make the security zip and fabric, at just the right size.  Best to make up the bag (see below) then measure to find the exact size.
To sew in the zip: cut one line down the centre of the fabric, the length of the zip.  On each side of this line, fold the fabric back a tiny way, to edge it.  You can then 'wrap' the fabric around the zip to sew it on - the zip itself will 'seal' the end of the fabric that you've just cut in half.

6. Making up

 Now comes the fun part!
I'd suggest you sew the edges of the bag first i.e. the bottom and sides of the 'sides' :-) so you've actually got a bag shape.
Then add the webbing/ribbon/binding to those edges.  There should now be no unedged edges seen - make sense?!
Next, sew in the security fabric - be careful at this point that you don't sew two sides of the bag together.  Yes, I might have done this by mistake...

 Now the strap:
Measure against your favourite bag to see how much length you'll need.
Fold back the very end of the webbing to make a good edge.
Feed the webbing through one strap hook, then through the middle bar of the strap adjustor.  Sew webbing together to form a loop with this bar 'trapped' inside!
Feed the other end of the strap through the main part of the strap adjustor, just like a belt.  Then loop it through the other strap hook (the one on the other side of the bag :-) )  Sew the end of the strap to itself.

7. Ta-Dah!

Enjoy your bag!

One word of advice - test out your homemade bag somewhere close to home, where it doesn't matter if things fall out 'cos you're not carrying your passport. I first used mine at Universal Studios, California, thousands of miles from home, and suddenly realised there was a hole (sew the sides, then add the webbing, people!) - thankfully nothing fell out on the rollercoasters :-)